Overhead high clean waves for today, before we see strong winds and big storm swells on it’s way into the back end of week. Deep shelter the go.
Synoptic situation: Low (969mb) Mid Atlantic moves NE, deepening as it does, to be situated off NW Scotland mid week. Low then moves East over N. Scotland for end of week, with W isobars extending length of UK. New low (964mb) forms mid Atlantic, moves east, deepening as it does.
Been some chunky swells about down these parts, Saturday was particularly spicey with a booming groundswell and strong SSW winds. Late drops and open sections all round down the road. Now a heavy, easily overhead day at the open beaches of the North Coast, looking clean though and if you fancy a long paddle, you’d definitely snag a few bombs in the winter sun. Get in somewhere if you can as the rest of the week is looking pretty stormy, with deep wound up lows spinning in across the Atlantic. Tomorrow we’ll see the wind pick up from the south (25mph+) with a building swell, those sheltered spots should be doing their thing – pretty chunky around the 5-6ft mark I’d have said. Again late drops, but get in if you can before the strong wind veers SW, then W for Thursday and Friday with big seas (10ft+). Sadly it looks like these big swells will come with a lot of west in the wind right through the weekend, meaning it wind will be getting in everywhere. There are a few spots I can think of that would be worth checking – deep shelter the go.
If you’re in London this Friday-Sunday, come and find us just off Brick Lane for our biggest sample sale of the year. The Old Truman Brewery
My first ever forecast was back in February 2003 when it was one of the 3 pages of our website – in my bedroom above the surf shop in Aggie. I update it (when I can!) Monday and Thursday am. I feel proud that it’s still part of the brand today.
It mainly focuses on the SW and won’t tell you to go this or that beach at this or that time. It’s more of a general overview of how I think things will pan out over the outlook period and what that means for us surfers on these shores…sometimes it’s awesome and sometimes it sucks, but often just good to get in.
There’s a bunch of links below that I find most useful. For me, reading the pressure charts has always been step 1 – goes back to the old days when all you had was the weather after the BBC news to make the call about a trip. That was 4 seconds you had to see what kind of systems were heading our way, before Michael Fish got in the way! You had to really understand and read the charts. In fact, our first advert was a met office chart for the best surf conditions for the South West UK. I went to the Met Office and scanned through 10 years of archive charts to find this one! The whole thinking was that if you knew charts and understood what this meant, you’d get the ad and get the commitment behind Finisterre and what it is we do.
In this day and age where there is so much info out there, the best swells are still the unexpected ones….every now and then they’ll sneak in and catch everyone off guard….
Best for wavebuoys
Windguru – this is the one that updates live
Best for charts, making your own wind readings and swell orientation
Good friend Des at Constantine Bay does the best daily report that I know….